Vesel

Ridge guide

Ines Kowal

Ines came up the ridge as a surveyor and stayed for the view. She leads the high line through the turning beeches, where the light arrives sideways and gold, and she always knows which bend will show you the whole valley first.

06:30 Trailhead
08:10 The first bend
10:00 Beech hall
11:40 The crest
14:00 Down the long way

7 h

on foot

16 km

ridge loop

2 to 8

people

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About Ines
The light does not climb the ridge. It is already there, waiting for you to catch up.
Ines Kowal, Ridge guide
Ines Kowal's emblem, a hand drawn line mark
Where she came from
Ines mapped this ridge for the forestry office before she ever led a group on it. She knows the height of every bend to the metre and still counts the steps out loud on the steep part.
How she guides
She sets a pace you can talk at and asks you not to. The point of the climb is the moment the trees open, and she wants you to arrive at it with breath left.
A walk with her
Seven hours, most of them under beeches, one of them on the open crest. Bring a layer for the top; the wind finds the gap in every jacket.

The line, stop by stop.

06:30 Trailhead
08:10 The first bend
10:00 Beech hall
11:40 The crest
14:00 Down the long way
06:30 Trailhead
08:10 The first bend
10:00 Beech hall
11:40 The crest
14:00 Down the long way
Trailhead on the Ridge Line, around 06:30
Trailhead06:30
Trailhead
The gate at the foot of the beeches. Boots checked, flasks filled, and one look up at where we are going.
The first bend on the Ridge Line, around 08:10
Viewpoint08:10
The first bend
The trees open for the first time. The valley is still in shadow and the ridge is already lit.
Beech hall on the Ridge Line, around 10:00
Rest10:00
Beech hall
A level stretch under old beeches, the floor deep in copper leaves. Coffee, and the loudest quiet on the line.
The crest on the Ridge Line, around 11:40
Viewpoint11:40
The crest
The whole valley below, the lake as a strip of light. Ines names every ridge you can see, and then stops talking.
Down the long way on the Ridge Line, around 14:00
The end14:00
Down the long way
The slow descent on the north side, where the moss starts again and the legs remember the climb.
Trailhead on the Ridge Line, around 06:30
Trailhead06:30
Trailhead
The gate at the foot of the beeches. Boots checked, flasks filled, and one look up at where we are going.
The first bend on the Ridge Line, around 08:10
Viewpoint08:10
The first bend
The trees open for the first time. The valley is still in shadow and the ridge is already lit.
Beech hall on the Ridge Line, around 10:00
Rest10:00
Beech hall
A level stretch under old beeches, the floor deep in copper leaves. Coffee, and the loudest quiet on the line.
The crest on the Ridge Line, around 11:40
Viewpoint11:40
The crest
The whole valley below, the lake as a strip of light. Ines names every ridge you can see, and then stops talking.
Down the long way on the Ridge Line, around 14:00
The end14:00
Down the long way
The slow descent on the north side, where the moss starts again and the legs remember the climb.

Every stop on the line.

The same marks you see on the map, in the order you will walk them.

The same marks you see on the map, in the order you will walk them.

Trailhead on the Ridge Line, around 06:30

start

06:30

Trailhead

The gate at the foot of the beeches. Boots checked, flasks filled, and one look up at where we are going.

The first bend on the Ridge Line, around 08:10

view

08:10

The first bend

The trees open for the first time. The valley is still in shadow and the ridge is already lit.

Beech hall on the Ridge Line, around 10:00

rest

10:00

Beech hall

A level stretch under old beeches, the floor deep in copper leaves. Coffee, and the loudest quiet on the line.

The crest on the Ridge Line, around 11:40

view

11:40

The crest

The whole valley below, the lake as a strip of light. Ines names every ridge you can see, and then stops talking.

Down the long way on the Ridge Line, around 14:00

finish

14:00

Down the long way

The slow descent on the north side, where the moss starts again and the legs remember the climb.

Who else is out

Who you might meet on this line.

Not a promise. Who has been seen on this line in twelve seasons, hour by hour, in the order you would meet them.

01/ 05
Red deer stag
Ridge Line 07:00
Red deer stag
Below the first bend in October, roaring across the valley. You hear three before you see one.
Most walks
Woodpecker
Ridge Line 09:20
Great spotted woodpecker
Drumming in the beech hall. Ines can tell you which tree before you find it.
Most walks
Red squirrel
Ridge Line 10:10
Red squirrel
Busy with beech nuts all autumn, and not at all interested in us.
Most walks
Red fox
Ridge Line 12:30
Red fox
Crossing the crest path in the open, unhurried, as if the ridge were its own.
Some walks
Brown bear
Ridge Line 13:20
Brown bear
Prints in the mud on the north side, twice a season. Never the bear.
Rare
Who else is out

Who you might meet on this line.

Not a promise. Who has been seen on this line in twelve seasons, hour by hour, in the order you would meet them.

01/ 05
Red deer stag
Ridge Line 07:00
Red deer stag
Below the first bend in October, roaring across the valley. You hear three before you see one.
Most walks
Woodpecker
Ridge Line 09:20
Great spotted woodpecker
Drumming in the beech hall. Ines can tell you which tree before you find it.
Most walks
Red squirrel
Ridge Line 10:10
Red squirrel
Busy with beech nuts all autumn, and not at all interested in us.
Most walks
Red fox
Ridge Line 12:30
Red fox
Crossing the crest path in the open, unhurried, as if the ridge were its own.
Some walks
Brown bear
Ridge Line 13:20
Brown bear
Prints in the mud on the north side, twice a season. Never the bear.
Rare
Who else is out

Who you might meet on this line.

Not a promise. Who has been seen on this line in twelve seasons, hour by hour, in the order you would meet them.

01/ 05
Red deer stag
Ridge Line 07:00
Red deer stag
Below the first bend in October, roaring across the valley. You hear three before you see one.
Most walks
Woodpecker
Ridge Line 09:20
Great spotted woodpecker
Drumming in the beech hall. Ines can tell you which tree before you find it.
Most walks
Red squirrel
Ridge Line 10:10
Red squirrel
Busy with beech nuts all autumn, and not at all interested in us.
Most walks
Red fox
Ridge Line 12:30
Red fox
Crossing the crest path in the open, unhurried, as if the ridge were its own.
Some walks
Brown bear
Ridge Line 13:20
Brown bear
Prints in the mud on the north side, twice a season. Never the bear.
Rare

The other guides.

See all guides
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Portrait of Jonas Vik, the Vesel guide who leads the Lake Line (weather and water)

Jonas Vik

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Lake Line

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